I was able to paint these test models, in around 3-4 minutes each, which means I should be able to repaint my Afrika Korps infantry in a single day using the following method: The far left of this model was primed Death Guard Green instead of White Scar. You’ll notice the left side is a bit less of a pure flesh tone than the right side As a saving grace, I found if you just apply a few thin highlights in a similar colour to the Speedpaint you are painting over, the reactivation isn’t much of an issue. Edge highlights with Wild Rider Red and Jokaero Orange over Blood Red Speedpaint

My favorite brushes are either Rosemary and Co or Raphael sable brushes. For Contrast Paints I want a larger size brush, size 2 minimum, or size 3 preferably

Gryph-Charger Grey Contrast Paint: This is one of the more subtle colors in the citadel contrast paints line. It’s a desaturated grey/blue. I use it a lot when shading blues of any color. Zealot Yellow is a little more orange than Iyanden Yellow, Fire Giant Orange a little more tomato red. Blood Red and Blood Angels Red are almost identical. Slaughter Red is a bit more crimson and produces slightly more prominent highlights, whereas Flesh Tearers Red is a little darker. Purple Alchemy is clearly darker than Volupus Pink and should perhaps be thinned with a little bit of Speedpaint Medium. Hive Dweller Purple is also slightly darker than Shyish Purple, but dries much less patchy.

Yes you can make your own contrast paint with contrast medium. Citadel sells their contrast medium in pots and you can combine it with other acrylics to make your own formulation. For this Speedpaint 2.0 review I took a few more samples from the new range. I tried to reactivate the paints after 30 minutes, 2 and 24 hours.

Speedpaints in Action

However, there is one thing I don’t like about Speedpaints that no one is really talking about: Even when they’re dried, they will reactivate when you paint over them. Here are some spots I wanted to touch up with Greyseer, and even though I applied multiple coats, the Blood Red Speedpaint keeps coming through, turning the Greyseer pink. I reached out to The Army Painter and they told me it is due to the composition of the medium and most prominent with Speedpaints containing a high amount of yellow pigments. Blood Red bleeding through Greyseer paint on top

Due to the higher stability, I was also able to glaze several layers of Speedpaint thinned with Speedpaint Medium, without previous layers of paint dissolving and smearing. The Army Painter is known for having some of the best and most affordable paints on the market , and their warpaints air line takes the airbrush paint game to the next level. This though is just another great innovation for all you painters out there! The A-Stand – AMMO presents an exclusive new range of lacquer-based, high- performance paints designed for modelling use. Formulated with ultrafine pigments, A-Stand is a range of professional paints that offers extremely realistic finishes difficult to match by other brands on the market. The A-Stand range offers a complete solution for the modeller: it includes an extensive colour chart of metallic and transparent tones, as well as primers and varnishes. These paints provide perfect results for any modelling subject, whether aircraft, military or civilian vehicles, figures, science-fiction and fantasy, or dioramas, providing a highly durable finish when dry. Why do you need A-Stand? The excellent fluidity of A-Stand products makes them easy to spray without clogging the airbrush. They also provide a tough and durable finish once dry, allowing the application of any other lacquer, enamel weathering products, or acrylic paint on top without issue. A-Stand products dry to the touch in a short period of time of approximately 30 minutes, depending on the amount of paint applied, ambient humidity and temperature. The A-Stand paint series includes various lines of products used to apply a range of effects and finishes on your models. What are the advantages of A-Stand? The range of A-Stand…

I’ve converted up a New Zealand 3NZ Division for pacific games of bolt action ( Yes there were New Zealand infantry in the Pacific, you can read about them in this excellent book “Pacific Star” by Reg Newell), these were made with a mixture of Warlord Games British Infantry, US Marines and Chindit figures, along with North Star heads in forage caps. I’ve used Osprey’s The New Zealand Expeditionary Force in World War II as a reference for these as well as photos in Pacific Star. New Zealand force being batch painted prior to base detailing and varnishing While I’ve been off work I’ve been painting a 1000 point bolt action force in around 3 days, which would normally take me around 3 months and not look anywhere near as good. Consistency-wise, they are quite thin, similar to pre-thinned airbrush metallic paints. From left to right: Broadsword Silver, Talos Bronze, and Hoplite Gold from the Speedpaint 2.0 range Assembly Line Painting: If you are painting multiple figures, this technique is fantastic. If you’re painting 5 orcs for example, you might start with painting all the skin green. One at a time. Then add leather boots to each. Then add steel paint to the axes.